Where others see flawless texture and clean lines, their keen eye picks up stains and cracks. And while most are awed by the delicate ornamentation, they find themselves constantly worrying about a stone coming loose here or there. Then there are beehives and rogue plants to remove, and many other unwanted elements to protect against. The attention is not excessive because it is, after all, a timeless beauty and a wonder of the world that has to be kept looking stunning as ever. Those engaged in the maintenance of Taj Mahal say it’s all a labour of love.
Long before the first tourist buses arrive at the Taj, Dilip Sharma is already on his rounds. At around 4am, he starts walking the perimeter of the monument that Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan got built between 1632 and 1654 in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. He checks the stonework, scans the lawns, and looks for anything that shouldn’t be there. Sharma is one of roughly 80 employees of Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) — which takes care of the Taj — for whom the day begins before the break of dawn and the vigil never ends.
